Kolkata Diary

I had a romantic notion about West Bengal for its great cultural and literary tradition, besides as it is the place of Rabindranath Tagore, the person I adore, i have a special feeling for it. Infact Bengal gave birth to many erudite men as Aurobindo, Vivekananda, Sathyajit Ray etc who are very precious to my heart.

West Bengal is considered the cultural capital of India, it is like France to Europe. Bengalis are proud of their brilliant culture and language.
When I landed at Nethaji Subhash Chandra Bose Airport in Kolkatta, I was so overwhelmed with a strange happiness. The very name (we are used to names of Nehru family),the atmosphere all seemed quite fresh and soothing to me. At last I am in the land of Tagore- the poet, guru, an eternal inspiration to humanity. My heart starts humming in profound joy, ‘thou hast made me endless, such is thy pleasure’(the beginning lines in Gitanjali). Tagore is like god to Bengalis, those who are not into reading even adore him.

It was raining all the night and I found a place to stay near Chowrangee line which is one of the busiest area in the city. Kolkatta resembles other Indian cities in many ways-traffic,dust,pollution and people. Yet I feel Kolkatta is a city having care and concern. People are extremely friendly and accommodative, at least I felt so. I often visited a shop near my guest house to find some ethnic ornaments. To my pleasant surprise, one day the shop keeper gifted me a bracelet made by himself. I was so moved by this gesture and thus my heart got closer to the city. I often felt a good wave length with Bengalis at least with those who came into my contact. I have always something to share with them either literature or politics. One day while having breakfast in a restaurant, which is mostly frequented by foreigners, one young bright waiter recognized me as a Keralite! He says he can make out people of any region or language. Oh gifted man, I said to myself. I tried different Bengali cuisines especially fish, food is cheaper than other cities, but i found it spicy.

On my idle walks through the city, I came across with so many beggars, especially girls on the street. Some are pretty sophisticated who know the art of begging well. Some even speak English and would befriend you in the guise of guiding you to find bus or direction. I chatted with them for long by avoiding the stares from people walking beside me. They complained me about their misery, apathy of the system etc asif I am their saviour. Most of those beggars are from from Bihar and Bangladesh, few are from certain villages in West Bengal. My concerns caused me some money, but they were expecting more from me. On my way back I was disturbed by their struggle for survival. That reminded me of the absurdity of a socialist regime that rules there more than two decades.

Today’s Kolkatta is a pot-pourry of culture, povety,film, malls, books plus communism. I couldn’t roam around much of Kolkata except few touristic spots,but what saddedned me most was that I had to skip my cherished visit to Shanti Niketan, the brain child of Tagore. But I have a valid reason o go back to Kolkatta again, I consoled myself.

Yes, we are like this

One more festival is over with lot of sound and fury. Deepavali is considered a festival of lights, but it seems a festival of noise (crackers). It is a nice festival with a great concept of light over darkness or victory of the good against the evil. But we, Indians love noise too much and burst crackers on each festival and each victory. I am not able to understand the psychology behind bursting crackers. If I express my anxiety to fellow Indians, many would n’t take that seriously. Because we are all used to noise and if there is silence, we will ask why? I remember how my relatives and friends surprised about my silent nature as a child. They always bothered me with a question, ‘why you don’t speak?’ Speak what? I never understood what they were asking and what I was supposed to speak. Now I know that we just want everybody to open their mouth and utter any nonsense.
Yes we are Indians, we love noise and we are waiting for any opportunity to make more noise :-)

Where is the mind without fear?

I was shocked to see the picture of Joel Elliot, a US journalist the other day. His bruised face shows the dark side of our police force. According to his statement that is sent to IB and external Ministry, he was beaten up brutally by Delhi police for trying to prevent four police men beating up a man in the dark. Police version of the story(which I doubt for sure) is that Joel was trying to steal a cab in a drunken state and was behaving violently. Even though it is true, how can they treat somebody like this? If this is the treatment towards a US journalist, what would be a lay man’s chance for justice? I have seen immense of time how people who live in the margins of society are beaten up by police for petty issues. Once in Karol Bagh(Delhi), I witnessed police slapping rikshaw-pullers who encroached into the restricted area to fetch passengers. The riksha-pullers withdrew from the spot believing they deserve it !

Our basic problem in India is that most of us are either unaware of laws or afraid of authorities. We have been taught not to question parents and teachers as they are the first authorities while growing up. Since childhood we are conditioned to live in a way designed by parents and society. Later we are obliged to obey other forms of authorities as power and money. So naturally we end up as passive people who hardly raise voice against injustice. Here police represents the unquestionable authority to take law into their hands with the virtue of their uniform. Indians hardly question the police as Joel did. The ingrained fear of public coupled with a passive attitude make police force as well other authorities behave like our masters. Our education too doesn’t encourage free thought, let alone question the injustice.

We are all mortal humans having our bad sides as well. So it is unwise to think some are above vices and beyond questioning. Our police force has to be more humane, because they are here to safe guard common people, not to harrasse them. Above all our education must be to enlighten the students with wisdom and knowledge. Only true knowledge opens the way for a mind that transcends fear.

No room for Humour

Are we a nation of humourless people? Or our politicians are just humourless hypocrats?This question popped up in my mind while reading the controversy over external affairs minister of state Shashi Tharoor’s comment on twitter. He tweeted that he would travel in cattle class to sympathise with the holy cows concerning the austerity gestures of govt. But politicians made a big issue out of this harmless joke.
The reaction of politicians shows their hypocrisy and how they take themselves so seriously. Besides our politicians definitely lack wisdom and maturity so that they make issue out of nothing. Shashi Tharoor is probably an odd man there, but I feel we are desperately in need of a wise and mature politician like him. Atleast Prime Minister Manmohan Singh is wise enough to see the humour in it. It would be better if politicians concentrate on good governance rather than waste time on mean things. Please, let us grow up.

Racism is in our mind

In the wake of recent attack on Indians in Australia, people back home cry about Racism. Are we really not racist to point finger at others? Here light skinned Indians look down upon black Indians, rich look down upon the poor. It is a fact that Indians like many Asians are so obsessed with white skin. India is good market for fairness cream and if you glanze through the matrimonial classifieds in newspapers, you would surprise to see the love for fair skin. Racism is a universal evil and no country is perfect in this regard.

It is in our nature to portray all the attacks or remarks as racist. We still shoulder the colonial baggage of inferiority complex. Probably this attacks does have nothing to do with the skin colour of Indians. Criminal elements are there everywhere. Envy, greed and blind nationalism or regionalism is present in other places as well. We have seen the attacks in Mumbai against poor north Indians though nobody was ‘shocked’ then. Those north Indians have gone to Mumbai as they don’t have any other option. But those students in Australia is there by paying a huge fees often for a fake certificate. Yet political parties took their cause and protested. But no one was their for those poor north Indians.
Besides Indian must learn to behave in a civilized society. Most of the time we are the most noisy and undisciplined people on the planet. We are famous for littering and flaunting wealth in public. We must be more open to other cultures and societies. Our medias too sensationalise this news and add racist tone to every attacks.
So it is better to make our home livable and better, before pointing finger at other countries.

Happy Laos

Laos? When I told some of my compatriots that I am going to Laos, they looked at me with a question in their eyes, ‘is that a country?’. Laos is hardly heard, but I was so surprised to see the amount of tourists in this land locked country. I had cherished pleasant feeling thinking that it might be a primitive country having virgin forests. Yes it is blessed with 70% forest -land but tourist friendly and much modern. And Laos is one of the less populated country in Asia.

After much unrest and civil war communism took over in 1975, and rule the country with a one party system. But that hasn’t affected their Buddhist way of life, though initially they were discouraged to become monks. In today’s Laos both Communism and Buddhism live together. One can see party flags and prayer flags, or monasteries exit side by side. Even today the prayers at certain monasteries are done in Pali language(language in which Buddha gave his teachings) When I befriended a monk there he invited me to offer prayers, thinking that as an Indian I would understand the language. Though I accepted the invitation, I conveyed my illiteracy in Pali language.
Pha Lak Pha Lam, or the Indian version of Ramayana is the most popular classic literature.

People of Laos are laid back and friendly and add flavour of fun even at work as they consider stressing too much is unhealthy for both the mind and body. Lao beer is the national drink and considered as pride of nation. As not an industrialized country, they have to depend heavily on neighbouring countries as Thailand, China and Vietnam for trade and consumer products. Capital Vientiane is a small town but clean and orderly that would slip into slumber after 9pm. Though not ‘modern’ in the strict sense of the term, you will get all the cuisines of world over there. I had some delicious Indian food from a restaurant own by a Bangladeshi. Lao cuisine lack the depth and delicacy of Thai food, but I tried some soup and sticky rice. Surprisingly life in Laos is costlier than in Thailand.

Luang Prabhang, the ancient capital is a mountainous place blanketed with lush greenery. It is on the banks of Mekong river, which adds charm to the city. Unesco listed it in the world heritage list. As a former French colony, the elegant wooden buildings bear the mark of French architecture. This sleepy town extends its calmly elegance to tourists lavishly. A ride around the outskirts of city is quite refreshing with its green landscapes and perfumes of frangipanis, which is a symbol of Laos.

The malls that mushroom in Laos are flooded with cheap Chinese products. They have imitations of almost all the big brands in the world. The huge jewellery market, mostly sell imitation of gold and other jewelleries. Though considered poor country, I
havn't seen any beggars on the road. People seem quite content with their simple way of life.


Laos culture and way of living is slightly similar to Thailand. Women seem free and run many business at least in cities. Unlike in Thailand where girls are in western robes, I have seen many girls wearing their traditional dress. It was so lovely to see the girls in their traditional dress.
Though not a road less traveled, Laos still reminds me of a lost land in the mountains, which I would like to explore again.

Sawateeka (welcome) to Thailand

Thailand is considered the land of smiles. True people are easy going and welcome you with a warm smile. They never forget to say ‘kopun krab(Thank you)’ in return of even a slightest gesture from you. Bangkok is very touristic, yet it won’t disappoint you. You can easily melt into the crowd and become one among themselves. They hardly bother you with stares or personal questions. People are generally polite and courteous. I feel it is a strange combo of sky scrappers, sky train and smiles.


It is a paradise of food. If you walk around the street, you will get tempted by those varieties of food on the display. It seems street food is an inevitable part of their life. I enjoy Thai food and some dishes remind me of Kerala food as they too use coconut. I had a delicious banana flower salad made with coconut milk and different dishes made of rice noodle from a vegetarian restaurant run by few women ambassadors of vegetarianism. People are quite health conscious despite their love for food. I have hardly seen any overweight people there.

It is quite a modern and well- planned city though the traffic- jam at peak hours reminded me of Indian cities. Chao praya river, flows through the heart of Bangkok is the life line of the city. A boat trip around the river, watching those sky scrappers on the both sides is amazingly romantic. A shopper’s delight it is. You will get everything that satisfies your luxurious taste. Besides it is a land of orchids as well. The lovely variety of orchids in the flower market was a real feast to my eyes.
But our visit to floating market was disappointing. It was an area for tourists and seemed everything was ‘arranged’ for tourists, all goods are very pricy as well. I feel this artificial ‘make up’ is a bad aspect of tourism.
.
Buddhism is the major religion, besides there are Muslims and Christians as well. It is believed that Buddhism reached there from Srilanka. There are many monasteries that mark the strong presence of religion, in Bangkok. I learned that they worship Lord Ganesh as well, for them it is ‘papi Ganesh’. And like Indian epic ‘Ramayana’, they have their own Ramayana, but it is slightly different from Indian version.

As in many Buddhist countries women are free as the society is much open. Thailand gave me an impression that the society is run by women. You can see the presence of women in all aspects of life especially in service industry and area of food is more or less controlled by them. I don’t know exactly about the status of women there, but Thailand impressed me as a country of women, unlike my strictly male dominated country. Thai king is the father figure of the nation. Everyday during the song that hails king, even those who walk on the road will stop to pay respect to him.
Our train journey from Bangkok to boarder of Laos was quite interesting. The train is quite clean and the sleeper berth was very comfortable.

There is sex market in Bangkok where you can see half naked girls dancing to the delight of tourists. But this is an ugly face of commercial tourism in modern era and Thailand is not an exception. The difference is that it is pretty open there.

The hosts at the guest house (Samsen 5 lodge) where we were staying, made us feel at home. They were so polite and generous. They feed us on delicious Thai food for breakfast. I left Bangkok with fond memories about the land of smiles.

Demographic Dividend and India

Demographic Dividend is the new term founded to show the population rise in a positive light. IT entrepreneur Nandan Nilekani’s book ‘Imagining India’ celebrates our population growth. The youth of India is an attractive investment in the future, he reasons. He says India’s population contributes to global economy as workers and consumers. But I fail to understand how an uneducated and unskilled youth can be an investment of future India. Our literacy rate is around 65% and population increases mostly among BIMARU(Bihar, Madhya Pradesh, Rajastan, Uttar Pradesh) states which are most backward in India.

I feel the corporate czars are kind of arm- chair writers as they don’t see the real India. India’s growing population can be a worrying factor in the future. During my travels I have befriended poor workers from many parts of India. Many confessed to me about the humiliation they have to face. I have seen in Goa, how young boys working at restaurants are treated as lesser humans. But they don’t have any option as they are trapped in poverty. Nobody treats them as human beings, let alone with respect. Whether this youth, having no self- respect or education will fit in the demographic dividend?

Foreigners often get shocked seeing women work on construction sites and on roads. Many ask me ‘How can they do that kind of work?’
But this is a common sight in India, of which nobody bothers about. Often this women seem to work with little kids their beside. They are under paid and not even aware of their rights. This is an irony in a country where women goddess are worshipped and motherhood is celebrated. How those hapless women can be considered an asset in the Demographic Dividend?
Corporate houses, elite class, politicians and Bollywud industry, probably benefit from the population explosion. Many big Corporate houses employ boys on contract basis for a monthly wage as less as Rs-2000/- they can be out of job any time. Rich often find this uneducated poor as walking machines.

Ignorance is the main cause of population explosion. I often wonder why the authorities turn a blind eye towards it when I see many kids begging on street. As poor have more children, its impossible to control population without female education. The case of Kerala is a good example in this regard where family planning is implemented successfully. Because there every woman is educated.

Education and awareness is important any country to progress. Growing population in India will contribute more violence, unemployment, environmental disaster, if not controlled. And if not invested heavily on educating the poor, our population will be a real problem in the future. Family planning and education must be our top priority.
Demographic Dividend is a new term founded to put the population rise on

Maoist Threat

By perpetuating violence throughout India, Maoist again proved that they can’t be ignored. If Terrorism can be blamed on external factors, Naxalism( this name derived from Naxalbari in West Bengal-the place where this movement begun) is more or less a home grown outfit, though certain external help can’t be ruled out. Maoism is an old wine in new bottlI don’t really know if it is something to do with Mao except the love of red among all those revolutionaries. But feel Maoist can’t be treated on par with terrorists even though I am not at all an admirer of Mao.

India’s poor states are the fertile soil for Maoists. Some areas are virtually under their control. Many are forced to obey their diktats out of fear. I think Indian political system contributed to a great extend to this menace. Tribals and poor are deprived of their fundamental rights for years. Political and bureaucratic apathy made this people vulnerable and desperate. Self -serving political class in India treat ‘aam admi’ as vote bank, except paying lip service during elections.

Financial situation is one reason though not the only, to the rising influence of Maoism. Most of the poor in India live on the margins of the society and don’t benefit from the economic boom of India. This exclusive growth is not something that can be proud of as we are made to believe. Prosperous states as Punjab, Gujarat, Hariyana, Kerala and Tamil Nadu have hardly any presence of Maoism. But these state’s progress has nothing to do with politicians. Particular social situation and hard works of certain people made this possible.
Naxalism was very active in Kerala during 70’s and early 80’s. Even many educated and privileged youth were got attracted to it. Unlike Maoists, murder the rich and distribute money among the poor was the method adopted by them then. But they couldn’t even win the hearts of poor, instead left scary image of violence and bloodshed in the minds of people. Later Gulf money and the unique social system, made the journey of Naxalites very hard. Few Naxal leaders even turned to spirituality.

Today India is forced to fight her made- in India brand of violence and imported violence as well. Whatever the reason I don’t agree the method use by Maoists to achieve their means. Infact they don’t achieve anything in this way rather than garner bad publicity. Besides one can’t win hearts by violence, even though won, it may not be real. But before fighting Maoism, we must treat the root cause of it. I hope new govt. will handle Maoist threat more sensitively.

Forgotten Natives

World celebrates Barrack Hussain Obama. True it is a great moment in the history that a black man is elected as President of USA. But I gave a second thought to it when my Italian friend asked ‘why a native Indian can’t be President?’ It is true world seems forgot about the plight of native Americans, about a a culture being wiped out from the history. It reminds me what Oscar Wilde told to his American host at a party, ‘You Americans are philistines who’ve invaded a sacred temple of art’. Native Americans never believed in possessing the earth as private property instead they worshiped the nature. They never exploited nature for material gain which begun with the invasion of Europeans. The ‘sophisticated whites’ considered native’s way of life and culture as primitive and uncivilized.
The real American culture and history is that of Native Indians. They are the original people of north America. But they are removed from the pages of American history. I learned in school that ‘Columbus discovered America’. We children repeated that on and off during my school days. Later I thought how Columbus can discover America that is already there. Now I view it as a cruel joke. Unfortunately history is that of ‘winners’, losers are forgotten foreve So today’s America is that of Europeans, Africans and Asians. Probbly Native Americans are a closed chapter there.

On being single

Being single is not very interesting in India. You have to answer even to strangers ‘why you are not getting married’? I don’t like somebody asking personal questions, but this is the way we are. Indians, probably everybody in the sub continent, are curious to know about you. If you are a single woman and travel alone, you have to deal with lot of silly questions. They don’t mean anything bad, but they are not used to women traveling alone. And of course marriage is considered a sacred institution in India. We are supposed to move through a track that is drawn by society. Indians don’t generally accept rebels ,or they don’t feel the need for privacy. It is quite usual , people to interfere in your affairs.
I am not against marriage, but against getting married just for the sake of it. I often wonder how people get marry to a person who is a stranger as it happens in the arranged marriages here. I am pretty choosy about a life partner. I think one needs to have certain compatibility with the person who would be your life partner. Besides I feel it is absolutely an individual choice whether to get marry or not to. But this kind of ‘individualism’ doesn’t exist here. And you have no choice or power to decide on your life in the conservative social system. Perhaps I think too much about every little thing. However I find myself quite unfit in this way of life.

People will start find their own reason if you don’t give them reason for your single status. At least they will warn you of the consequences of being single. I must say that I enjoy my single status though it can be boring sometimes. I crave for a company while traveling, particularly to help me with my luggage and other stuff. But being single is better than being in an unhappy marriage.

Indian political thamasha

Indian politics is a great thamasha. 'Mein prime minister banna chahtha huin’is the mantra of even chota political leaders. Everybody from Sharad Pawar to Mayavati and Deve Gowda to Jayalalita wants to become Prime Minister. Some flirt with other parties, even while stay ‘married’ with Congress or BJP. They joined in the third front formed at the behest of left parties, whose agenda is anti-BJP and Anti-congress govt. But the parties who joined with Left don’t even have a national vision, let alone a national agenda. An alliance with regional parties having too many Prime Minister aspirants is a vain exercise. NCP leader Sharad Pawar has already said that this time people want a Maharashtrian to be Prime Minister. I feel it is quite a narrow perspective and an Indian Prime Minister should be above regionalism as well religionalism.

Left is known for their ‘antism(read anti-America, Anti- development, anti-BJP )though blind at Chinese aggression. Besides left parties hardly have any impact in other states except Kerala and West Bengal. Some of their allies in the newly formed third front is infamous for non reliability and some face even corruption charges. I think this ‘love affair’ is not going to last.
What we lack here is a charismatic leader having devotion and sincerity. There is no way for sincere and intelligent people to enter into the political system. Only means to enter into politics is the primitive way of rallies and protests that is certainly not appealing. Hope this political thamasha won’t end with the election, but it is probably the beginning. This may result in marriage of convenience and divorces.

Mumbai meri Jan

Mumbai slum life is romanticized by Robert Gregory Davids in his book ‘Shantaram’. Now ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ adds glamour to its slums. But there is a Mumbai beyond its slums and poverty, beyond bollywood and sky scrappers. Glamour, penury, beauty, dirtiness, dreams, frustrations - all stay hand in hand here. But one must probably find that by oneself.

When I decided to move there, my friends discouraged me saying it a dustbin of Asia. They told me that you can’t cope with the fast life of the megalopolis. As someone from a small place in Kerala, life in Mumbai seemed quite scaring for me. Underworld rivalry, riots, bollywood, crowded local train - Mumbai was a mix of all in my imagination. Besides, I never lived in a big city before. Yet I thought better to explore by myself than seeing things through somebody’s eyes (I have a tendency to take decisions by myself eventhough I respect others advices).

But Mumbai changed my perception, my attitude and I found out myself in the faceless crowd. I found myself in a brave, confident and young Mumbai. I became a more confident person. I met bhayyas, bongs, mallus and Gujjus (local term used for people of different languages) there. In my office there might be a Bengali sitting one side, and a Parsi opposite (those who are from Persia). But there we are all ‘Mumbaikar’. This cultural mix was so appealing to me and an opportunity to learn. Mumbai opened the door of a new world before me.

There are prostitutes and bar girls who land in this city to make a quick buck. There are pimps around you in railway stations and at crowded places to trap those helpless girls who run away from home to evade violence or poverty. When I travelled in the crowded local train among smelling fisher women, I would regret for being there, when I saw people shitting on road I would chose to shut my eyes and nose against this city. When I saw beggars follow you like an illness I would curse our poverty.

Yet I would wake up with a new hope next morning, I would go to south Mumbai and buy an export quality dress at a cheap price, I would go to a road side book vendor to buy even the latest book at a lower rate. What not, there is drama, dance, music, painting to feed your mind and heart. If you are still hungry, you can relish on Mumbai Burger (Vada Pav). It won’t cost you much. Street food culture is very active in Mumbai. Besides Vada pav, there are Sev Puri, Pani Puri, Dahi Puri and different kinds of chatts to make you feel the taste of Mumbai. On sitting at the sea side near Gateway of India, you can dream of Taj. Mumbai is charming even in her dirtiness, She is like a bewitching woman who beckons to you even when ugly. She has a caring soul, and there is life in Mumbai.

Mumbai survived riots, terrorism, underworld blood bath. Many build up their business empire here from nothing. Many became rich and famous. Mumbai is the back born of Indian economy. Everything is possible in this city of opportunity. There is a local joke about Mumbai that ‘you can buy anything here except your parents’. Rich and poor alike pour in here insearch of a better future. Whether it is a fugitive from Australia or a beggar from a remote village of India; she receives all with an open arm. she reminds me the words of one small business man from UP that ‘In Mumbai nobody die of hunger’. They say Mumbai is blessed by Mumba devi(Goddess Mumba).

Many faces composes Mumbai: this is the city of ivory tower dwellers and slum dwellers alike. City of celebrities and road side vendors. City of those employees who ran faster than fast train. Here nobody asks you questions about your home, parents or religion. Nobody interfere in your affairs, even house maids maintain a dignity in dealing with you. It is a place where you can have your individual space in the crowd, and besides safer to women than any other Indian cities. I am happy I chose to come to Mumbai. I always love you Mumbai.

With hatred from Pakistan

When world fights with global economic melt down, India is forced to fight with Terrorism. But it is extremely unfortunate few foreign leaders as British foreign secretary David Milliband connect Kashmir issue with terrorism. Many countries in the world faces separatist issue, even UK had problem with IRA. China faces many separatist issue, but world doesn’t have any idea what is happening inside communist China. So it is natural a multi-cultural, multi-lingual, and multi-religious country like India has to live with too many problems. Whether one supports separatists or not is a different issue, but how many govt. will be ready to part with its land? It would be better to check their own backyard before issuing statements about other countries.

Besides Kashmir was never part of Pakistan. I really don’t understand what is the basis for their claim on Kashmir despite the fact that it is a muslim majority area. But we have muslims in all parts of India, she has the 2nd largest muslim population in the world after Indonesia.
But western leaders and medias are myopic in their understanding about India. For example after 26/11, BBC kept on reporting that ‘the many Hindu terror attacks that had taken place in recent times…’ when it give a Hindu tag to terror, it never mentioned ‘Islam terror’ in its reporting. I feel BBC is too eager to air anti-hindu sentiments in its reporting. I don’t say Hinduism is without flaw, it has got fanatical elements in it. Despite the oldest religion in the world, it doesn’t have a history of bloodshed as Christianity or Islam does have. India’s tolerance is essentially Hindu. When I say Hindu, I differentiate between Hindu fanatism and true essence of Hinduism.

When it comes to Indo-Pak conflict US too has her contibutin in it. Washington supported dictators and used Islam fanatics to counter communists (Soviet Union). It encouraged Pak army’s stand on India as a bully. The tragic climax is Osama bin Laden any many other militants. Obviously it is India who suffers worst through the insane policies of US in the past.

Today democratically elected Pakistan governement is a joke, the reality is that they are controlled by army and ISI which is more or less Talibanised. Even a liberated lady like Benazir couldn’t do much about that. The governement can’t trace the assassins of Benazir Bhutoo, but it is everybody to know that ISI is behind that. My friend in Pakistan told me sometime back that governement is afraid of Army and US controls it. I know common public left with no choice. There is good feeling among people of both the countries. There are instances that some shop keepers and taxi walahs refused to accept payments from Indians when they visited Pakistan. But unfortunately we have less chances to interact and to know each other.

Pak Army and ISI‘s India bashing is quite baseless except jealousy towards its rather successful neighbhour. A section of them do seem to share the mindless hatred in the words of Hafiz Muhammad Saeed (Lakshar-e-Taiyaba), “there can’t be any peace while India remains intact. Cut them, cut them, cut them so much that they kneel before you and ask for mercy”.
Obviously he is dreaming India to kneel down. India is tested many times of her patience. Yet she didn’t push herself into war as US did after 9/11. That is why India is a reality with all her limitations. That contributes to the success of India as a strong democracy while her neibhours are toiling with internal problems. I feel India can show the world that is already torn with violence, that Peace is not the option of a coward, but it is the choice of the strong and dignified.

Whenever Pakistan is accused of terror strikes in India, they would lament ‘we are also victims’. True, but victims of their own breed of hatred. So I suggest them to set their home right instead of shedding crocodile tears about terrorism.

An Angel without wings

I met her at Ponta Sahib (a small town in Himachal Pradesh) during Tibetan march. They were having rest at a Tibetan monastery when got arrested. I was so tired after a long journey from Macloed Ganj and was trying to find a place to rest. But she approached me with a bright smile and offered all the help to rest at her place. Obviously the place is not very spacious, but I found her presence so comforting. She is not fluent in English, but managed to convey through a translator that there is lot in her heart to tell me, but can’t express. It was the beginning of a great friendship between us.

Her name is Kunchok Lhamo, she is an Angel without wings. She came to India with her old father on foot. She was accompanying him who had to leave Tibet to escape Chinese army. He was tortured in prison for many years due to his political activities. On their way, the Nepalese guides never helped her old father to cross the mountains, instead they were giving a helping hand to beautiful girls, she says.

I was so moved by the kindness and love she shows to everybody, she is a girl who is devoid of any worldly vices. An innocent wild rose who doesn’t aware of her beauty, but spreads her fragrance to all around her unselfishly. She has a big house in Tibet, but she has to live in a tiny room at Macleod Ganj. Sitting in her little place, she dreams of the peach fruits, apple and wall nuts in her garden in Tibet. She desperately wants to be in her beautiful home with her affectionate mother.

When in Macleod Ganj, I am a regular visitor to her home. Probably nobody take care of me as they do. I learned from them the art of giving more than you have; loving more than you get. Sometimes her father says I am his elder daughter. I can’t hear her father’s story without tears in my eyes. What moves me is the amount of kindness in him despite the inhuman tortures he had gone through in Chinese prison. He surprises me with his knowledge about India and world at large, though he had never been to school. They are so close to my heart, may be that existed long before I met Lhamo.

Rahman and Slumdog Millionanaire

Everybody in India celebrates Alla Rakha Rahman. Oscar award is sure a recognition for his genius and he well deserves that, eventhough I don’t feel oscar is the best award in the world. Probably it is more about glamour and glitter. But this gave a chance to west and US to get to know Rahman’s musical talent. Otherwise our musicians are not much exposed to western world. But Rahman composed wonderful songs right from the beginning of his career way back in 80s. I prefer to listen to the Tamil version of his songs to Hindi ones, it is more musical to my ears. For me it is a spiritual experience too. Rahman himself admitted that music composing is a spiritual journey to him. What is attractive about him is his humility. Born hindu who is converted to Islam he embodies the true spirit of Sufism - to surpass one’s ego.
And for sound Engineer Resul Pookutty, oscar award is a great honour and achievement. They both represents a bright and talented young India.

Slumdog is a well made film though commercial one, and I particularly liked the way director experiment with non-actors. He could tap the talent of slum kids that made them perform like seasoned actors. This film made slum kids dream a world beyond their limit, beyond their little shanty. There are many negative views in India about the success of this film. True it get noticed because of the British director. India had rags to rich stories in the romantic idealistic eras of 70s and 80s. But we don’t need to get upset about somebody show casing poverty. Instead we must get upset by the amount of poverty we have in India. Personally it stir my conscience whenever I see people live in abject poverty. This is one side of India which is poor and abandoned. And bad things get good publicity, but this is true of any nation. I feel we must take this criticism positively and work towards eradicating poverty.

But I do feel that Slumdog, Rahman and Resul got Oscar mainly because director knows oscar market well. it is all about marketing.

Macleod Ganj Diary

Macleod Ganj is as charming as any part of Himachal Pradesh. I am pretty fascinated by this mountain state. Macleod Ganj was my first stop in Himachal Pradesh, later I have been to many other places in this state and would like to visit again and again. Dalai Lama, monks… it was all about a spiritual aura in the beginning. The monks are the friendliest people I have ever seen. They are approachable and always ready to help you.

It is more or less a Tibetan area. So it is no surprise that whenever I write about Macleod Ganj, it happens to be a Tibetan story. I feel proud of Tibetans who made a living here without forgetting their root. I feel so sympathetic to the Tibetan refugees who had to give up their homeland. I heard stories of Chinese Army snatching away all their valuables and literally made them poor during the invasion. Probably as they live in an alien land, here in India they have a strong community feeling and help each other.

What surprises me is the kind of unseen wall between locals and Tibetans. There is hardly any interaction among them. After many years in India, Tibetans live as separate community here. Maybe locals feel threatened of their presence? But I find Tibetans are more keen to interact with westerners, one could feel that if pay a visit to any of Tibetan shop. For many young Tibetans, India is a temporary resting place before their destination to USA or Europe. It is funny to see many Tibetans youth rubbing shoulder with western girls, struggle to speak with an American accent.

A large part of Tibetan youthness is trendy and fashion-conscious unlike the locals who seems to have other preoccupation. During my many visits to Macleod Ganj, I realized that beyond Buddhism and spirituality, Tibetans look at west and imitate them.

Locals Indians don’t have much sympathy for Tibetans. Initially it was bit astonishing to me. When I asked about this to some Indians they told me ‘we know them as we live with them’. I didn’t really get what they meant, but thought better to leave that there. Besides they feel Tibetans have many well wishers abroad, they get fund, one even put it like this: ‘They have Richard Gere, who is there for those Indians who beg on street?’
However I have always sympathy for Tibetans and I particularly support their non-violent freedom struggle. In all their protest marches they carry the picture of Mahatma Gandhi. It is heartening to see Gandhi is ‘enliven’ through them when we forgot the great son of India. I feel India must be grateful to them also as they preserved the Buddhist religion and culture. It is through Tibet Buddhism spread to its neibhouring places
But with all its draw backs, I still love to be in Macleod Ganj, I love the freedom and safety of a woman here, I love to see the variety of people from all over the world here, I love the different cuisines here. Last but not least I cherish a walk to Dalai Lama's Temple when I feel lost and lonely.

Spiti - a lost Valley

Spiti is a lost valley sandwitched between perennial snow capped mountains. Cold, remote and dry - it looks like another country inside India. The sight of huge mountains that appears as if to kiss the blue sky is so spectacular. The valley is not much exposed to tourism though blessed with unique features.

Reaching there is a real adventure. The muddy, zigzag road from Manali to Kaza (head quarters of Spiti) can be scary at times. It was dry and sunny in june when we set out for Kaza. Everybody at the Himachal Pradesh state bus we were traveling seemed so tired when it stopped for lunch at Rohtang pass. There was only one little dhaba on that deserted way. The simple food consists of rice, dal and a vegetable appeared so delicious.

The red soil of Kaza reminds me of the Mars surface's pictures. Kazans are friendly and greet you with a warm hello ("jooley"). Their world is so small and simple and without much ambitions. I could read a kind of tranquility and innocence on the face of every Spitian I came across. I wanted to take into my arms the muddy faced children who looked at us in awe and curiosity.

Their culture and food habits are similar to that of Tibetan. Spiti is a 100% buddhist valley where people hold Dalai Lama in high regard. One of the ancient Buddhist temple - Tabo monastery, build in 996 of our era, is situated here.
Due to the extreme weather and location, life is hard for Spitians. They are literally away from much of the modern amenities. There is neather means for higher education nor opportunity for job. Only few can afford to send their children for higher studies.



Bollywud and cricket connect India well. Here also I have seen people thronging before TV to watch hindi films and Cricket. Before leaving, me and my friend Mat were invited to the house of a local Spitian whom I befriended in the bus.
The house is made in a traditional style with mud and straw. As everybody knows hindi I could communicate with them well. They didn't have any idea of Switzerland where my friend Mat belongs to. For them he is just an 'angrezi' (English man, but tried to include him also in conversation).

Everybody in the house sat on the floor mat to chat with us. They were so eager to speak of their place and culture. We have been served tea and different snacks. While leaving, our host told me that their house will be open to us anytime we go there. With all their limitations, Spitians are rich at heart, I thought.

Life in the time of Moral policing

We don’t have any dearth of publicity-hungry parties or groups in India. The latest avatar is Sriram Sena that began its ‘public life’ by attacking women at a pub in Mangalore. Unfortunately they claim to be warriors of a person who is considered a perfect man in the epic Ramayana. These groups emerge from nowhere as mushrooms after the rain and get all the media attention though for wrong reason.

I don’t know whether it is post modern face of intolerance as medias put it. Because as a society India is conservative despite the mask of modernity it wears in the cities. So naturally section of the society cannot stand the increasing freedom Indian women enjoy today. Our society has a tendency to blame and control women. Of course it views woman through the male eye. Indian society is terribly male dominated.

Even after attacked and abused by bad language, none of the girls or their parents came out in the open with complaint. Parents try to play it down by blaming their girls. It is always men who decide how women must behave, what they must do, wear and think. The attacks on girls in Mangalore, Hariyana and other places are nothing but an indication of male arrogance and chauvinism. It has nothing to do with valentine’s day celebrations or Indian culture. Sadly, this moral police never react when women are being raped and molested.

Other factor is probably jealousy. The fact that somebody is enjoying things which is denied to the underprivileged. Those who take into the streets in the name of moral policing are less educated and less privileged ones. I wonder what would be their answer if stop and ask about Indian culture. Those who manipulate them are the real beneficiaries in this deal.

Moral policing is against the freedom of individual. But surprisingly many in our closed society support this menace. At the same time society changes rapidly on one side - more westernized and shallow. Anyways I feel the moral police should immediately take lessons of Indian culture.