27/02/09

Macleod Ganj Diary





Macleod Ganj is as charming as any part of Himachal Pradesh. I am pretty fascinated by this mountain state. Macleod Ganj was my first stop in Himachal Pradesh, later I have been to many other places in this state and would like to visit again and again. Dalai Lama, monks… it was all about a spiritual aura in the beginning. The monks are the friendliest people I have ever seen. They are approachable and always ready to help you.

It is more or less a Tibetan area. So it is no surprise that whenever I write about Macleod Ganj, it happens to be a Tibetan story. I feel proud of Tibetans who made a living here without forgetting their root. I feel so sympathetic to the Tibetan refugees who had to give up their homeland. I heard stories of Chinese Army snatching away all their valuables and literally made them poor during the invasion. Probably as they live in an alien land, here in India they have a strong community feeling and help each other.

What surprises me is the kind of unseen wall between locals and Tibetans. There is hardly any interaction among them. After many years in India, Tibetans live as separate community here. Maybe locals feel threatened of their presence? But I find Tibetans are more keen to interact with westerners, one could feel that if pay a visit to any of Tibetan shop. For many young Tibetans, India is a temporary resting place before their destination to USA or Europe. It is funny to see many Tibetans youth rubbing shoulder with western girls, struggle to speak with an American accent.

A large part of Tibetan youthness is trendy and fashion-conscious unlike the locals who seems to have other preoccupation. During my many visits to Macleod Ganj, I realized that beyond Buddhism and spirituality, Tibetans look at west and imitate them.

Locals Indians don’t have much sympathy for Tibetans. Initially it was bit astonishing to me. When I asked about this to some Indians they told me ‘we know them as we live with them’. I didn’t really get what they meant, but thought better to leave that there. Besides they feel Tibetans have many well wishers abroad, they get fund, one even put it like this: ‘They have Richard Gere, who is there for those Indians who beg on street?’
However I have always sympathy for Tibetans and I particularly support their non-violent freedom struggle. In all their protest marches they carry the picture of Mahatma Gandhi. It is heartening to see Gandhi is ‘enliven’ through them when we forgot the great son of India. I feel India must be grateful to them also as they preserved the Buddhist religion and culture. It is through Tibet Buddhism spread to its neibhouring places
But with all its draw backs, I still love to be in Macleod Ganj, I love the freedom and safety of a woman here, I love to see the variety of people from all over the world here, I love the different cuisines here. Last but not least I cherish a walk to Dalai Lama's Temple when I feel lost and lonely.

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