The abode of Cloud

I visited Meghalaya with a lot of hope and excitement. Clouds and rain always sail into my mind whenever I think of Meghalaya — the Abode of Clouds. Cherrapunji, the place with the highest rainfall in India, is situated in this state. I was there during the rainy season, and rain followed me wherever I went. As a Keralite, I’m used to life in heavy rain and share a romantic relationship with it. It makes me imaginative and dreamy — watching raindrops falling on the earth, leaves, and kissing the flowers feels like nature writing poetry. Getting drenched in the rain and dancing in it is my ultimate ecstasy. Of course, you can sing, dance, laugh, and even cry in the rain, as Charlie Chaplin said, “None will see you cry in the rain.” Meghalaya did not disappoint me. Instead, it entertained my heart with a variety of experiences that I might not have had in mainland India. The Northeast part of India is a less-explored region, yet it is rich in greenery, biodiversity, and unique culture. Meghalaya is known for its high rainfall, green valleys, and rich biodiversity.

I had heard much about its living root bridges and Asia’s cleanest village, and seeing them in reality was a beautiful dream come true. The Living Root Bridge, bio-engineered from intertwined tree roots, is truly one of nature’s wonders. Mawlynnong village, renowned as Asia’s cleanest village, is beautifully maintained with bamboo-made dustbins and waiting shelters. I was deeply impressed by how the villagers kept their village clean and lively. I genuinely wish my fellow Indians in other parts of the country would follow their example. Cleanliness was one unique aspect I noticed in many parts of Meghalaya, though the capital, Shillong, is a bit messy with pan stains. Most locals chew paan, as it seems to be part of their culture. I also visited the Dawki River, located near the Bangladesh border, famous for its emerald green and crystal-clear waters, as well as Cherrapunji, the wettest place in India. Though Christianity is the main religion there, the people have retained their rich tribal culture. The three major tribes are the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo. Meghalaya is the only state in India where the matrilineal system is practised. Women control many aspects of social life, and the youngest daughter inherits the parental property and the responsibility of taking care of her parents. Men usually move to their wives’ homes after marriage, though some young men I spoke to expressed reservations about this practice. However, women can end the marriage whenever they wish, perhaps because the matrilineal system empowers them to do so. I have noticed similar visibility and agency of women in public spaces in some Buddhist countries like Thailand, Laos, and Bhutan.

A girl in Traditiinal Meghalayan dress The people of Meghalaya are generally very friendly and helpful. Although they have their local languages, English is the medium of education, so everyone is fluent in it. The influence of Western culture is quite evident in the streets of Shillong, where Western songs and guitar music often entertain passersby. Shillong is a delightful potpourri of different cultures and languages, with people from mainland India — mainly from West Bengal — running many businesses. My own small state, Kerala, is popular across India for its pristine beauty, and the people of Meghalaya appreciated it too. Domestic tourism is flourishing in the state, but the inflow of tourists also brings loud and messy habits — one negative side effect of tourism that the authorities must address. There are sightseeing buses operated by the Meghalaya Tourism Department that run every day with guides to explain the sights. However, the roads leading to many popular destinations are in poor condition. Connectivity from Guwahati — the main tourist hub of the Northeast — to Shillong is also limited and not up to the mark. I failed to understand why the Meghalaya government does not operate its own bus services to Shillong despite the state’s immense tourism potential. Private vehicles and shared cars remain the primary means of transport. When I asked locals about this, they too seemed disappointed but felt helpless. Internal transportation within Meghalaya is equally problematic. Some locals expressed concerns about government corruption and illegal mining — issues that continue to plague the state. Still, I hope the Abode of Clouds will rise above these challenges and shine brightly.